INGREDIENTS NAME | FUNCTIONS / BENEFITS | USAGE RATE | FORMULATION STAGE | PRODUCTS |
OTHER INFORMATION ( STORAGE )
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Urea | |||||||
Zinc Oxide | USP grade Reflects sunlight (UVB rays) Has soothing effects and can be used for skin irritations Whitening effect on skin therefore also used as coverage for makeup products |
Maximum 5 -25 % | Water Phase | Sun care products soothing skin care products diaper creams, mineral makeup. |
Store light-protected at a cool and dry place |
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Hyaluronic Acid | Most powerful moisturizer and humectant available Provides smoothness and softening to the skin Can reduce the appearance of wrinkles Ideal ingredient after skin peels |
0.1 – 2.0 % | Water Phase | Hydrating gels, moisturizing creams & lotions, anti-aging & anti-wrinkle products |
Shelf-life up to 3 years if stored protected from humidity and microbial contamination. | ||
Lauric Acid | Improved skin cell turnover for smoother, more even skin Fades hyperpigmentation Can help with acne Boosts moisturizing & our NMF |
0.1 – 2.0 % | Water Phase | Hydrating gels, moisturizing creams & lotions, anti-aging & anti-wrinkle products |
Shelf-life up to 3 years if stored protected from humidity and microbial contamination.
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L – Ascorbic Acid | Potent antioxidant Can improve appearance of aged and fragile skin Widely used as add-on ingredient in skin-lightening products Antioxidant effect can be increased by combining L-ascorbic acid |
final concentration 0.5-10 % | Water Phase | Lotions, creams, sun care & after sun products, shampoos, makeup products (e.g. lipsticks) |
prinkle vitamin C powder slowly to the water under constant stirring to assure that everything dissolves completely. Should be formulated at pH 4-5 for best results. For external use only.
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Vitamin E Acetate | Provides excellent antioxidant activity Has moisturizing, soothing, and calming properties Can improve the appearance of aged skin making |
0.1-1.0% | Cool Down Phase | All kinds of skin care products, sun care products, makeup products, hair after-treatments preparations. |
Store in a closed container at a dry place at room temperature
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Squalane | Excellent skin-penetrating qualities Medium spreading qualities Non irritating, non-allergenic, hypo-comedogenic |
1-10% | Oil Phase | Skin creams, lotions, hair care, massage oils, makeup products and lip care. |
Store in a closed container at a dry place at room temperature
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Allantoin Powder | Soothes and alleviates skin-irritations Has moisturizing and hydrating effects Often used to minimize pore size Has anti-aging properties |
0.2-2% | Water Phase | Lotions, creams, sun care & after sun products, shampoos, scalp rinses, shower gels, lip & baby care products. |
Store light-protected at a cool and dry place
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Salicylic Acid | Can be used for skin peels, anti-dandruff products and in products for oily, acneic and/or blemished skin |
0.5-3% | Water Phase | Peels and exfoliant products. Anti-acne products (max. 2%). Anti-dandruff products (max 3%). Wart-removing products (max. concentration depends on type of plaster vehicle used). |
Store light-protected at a cool and dry place
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Sulphur Powder | great absorbing power useful for greasy, blemished, impure and irritated skin |
0.1 – 1.5 % | Water Phase | Peels and exfoliant products. Anti-acne products (max. 2%). Anti-dandruff products (max 3%). Wart-removing products (max. concentration depends on type of plaster vehicle used). |
Store light-protected at a cool and dry place
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Oleic Acid | emollient, moisturizer and co-emulsifier | Recommended use level 1-5%. | Water Phase | Skin and hair care products, color cosmetics |
Store light-protected at a cool and dry place
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Colloidal Oatmeal | Helps to relieve dry and itchy skin Soothes stressed, blemished and irritated skin |
Typical use level 5-30% | Sprinkle into cold or hot water and mix well | Creams, lotions, bath treatments, shower gels, shampoos, pet care products. |
Store in a closed container at a dry place at room temperature
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Isopropyl Miristate | Superior emollient for non-greasy bath Gives gloss and shine to hair Resistant to oxidation |
Typical use level 1-20% | Oil Phase | Creams, lotions, hand creams, shampoo, shower gels, makeup removers, powders and foundations. |
Store in a closed container at a dry place at room temperature
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Soy Lecithin | Natural emulsifier and dispersing agent Excellent water binding ability (prevents moisture loss) Good emollient, anti-sticking and refatting properties Controls viscosity |
Typical use level is 0.5 – 5% | Oil Phase | Lotions, creams, ointments, salves, body washes, shampoos, sun care products & after-sun products, body butter, makeup products. |
Store in a closed container at a dry place at room temperature
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Kojic Acid | Skin-lightening effect by inhibiting melanin formation Promotes skin lightening and helps establishing an even skin tone on all skin types Minimizes liver spots Often used also to preserve or stabilize colors in cosmetic products |
1-3% | Add to warm (25-40°C/77-104°F) water phase of formula. | All kinds of skin-lightening products including lotions, creams, fluids, makeup products. |
Store light-protected at a cool and dry place
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Keratin NFPF | Revitalizes the hairs natural protective layer and rebuilds tensile strength Returns elasticity and reduces breakage Reduces hair damage from harsh chemicals |
Recommended use level: 1-5% | Water Phase | All kinds of hair care products including shampoos, hair conditioners, hair balms, hair pomades and also skin care products including lotions and creams. |
Store away from direct sunlight at a dry place at room temperature
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Vitamin A palmetate | Has potent rejuvenating properties Can improve appearance of aged and blemished skin Ideal for advanced treatment of pre-conditioned skin |
Recommended use level: 0.1 – 1.0 % | Water Phase | All kinds of skin care products (primarily rejuvenating, nourishing & after sun products). |
Store refrigerated (4-8°C / 39-46°F)
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Benzoic Acid | Broad spectrum preservative effective against bacteria, yeast and mold Active in a wide pH range (best between pH 3-6.5) |
0.5-1.2%. | Add to formulations under hot conditions (up to 95oC/203oF). | All kinds of skin & hair care products (incl. emulsions, aqueous gels), sun care products, makeup products. |
Store in a closed container at a dry place at room temperature
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Niacinamide Powder | Has soothing activity useful for blemished skin Can improve the appearance of aged, hyperpigmented and photodamaged skin |
Typical use level is 1-6 % | Water Phase
Avoid adding to an acidic product, ideal final pH of product should be 6 |
Products for blemished skin, lotions, creams, sun care & after sun products, makeup products, anti-aging products. |
Store light-protected at a cool and dry place
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Glycolic Acid | Widely used to rejuvenate the skin by encouraging the shedding of old surface skin cells | Typical use level is between 1-3 % | Water Phase | Peels, creams, lotions, masks, cleansers. Due to it’s acidity the final product needs to be tested for safe pH. Optimal pH range from 3.5-5.0. Some over the counter products, after adding glycolic acid, will separate as a result of the low pH, and need to be stabilized. |
Store light-protected at a cool and dry place
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Isododecane | Has a weightless feel on skin and enhances spreadability of products due to its low viscosity and density Helps prevent evaporation of water from the skin |
2-15% | Oil Phase | Mascara, eyeliner, creams, lotions, hair care, conditioners, hairsprays, perfumes. |
Store in a closed container at a dry place at room temperature
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Alpha Arbutin Powder | Promotes skin lightening and an even skin tone on all skin types Reduces the degree of skin tanning after UV exposure |
Recommended concentration 0.2-2% | Water Phase | All kinds of skin-lightening products including lotions, creams, makeup products. |
Store light-protected at a cool and dry place
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Citric acid | Acidulant (useful to adjust pH of products to make them more acid / less alkaline) Chelating effect (neutralizes minerals to enhance activity of antioxidants & preservatives) |
For safe use do not use at >10% or at pH <3.5 | Cool Down Phase | Creams, lotions, shampoos, shower gels, bath bombs/fizzes (combined with sodium bicarbonate). |
Store light-protected at a cool and dry place
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Natural Hydroxyethyl Cellulose | Effective thickener of emulsions, surfactants systems, and gels Often used as foam stabilizer and anti-caking agent (prevents lump formation) |
Typical final use level 0.5-3%. | Oil Phase | Shampoos, conditioners, lotions, creams, body washes, shower gels. |
Store in a closed container at a dry place at room temperature
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Salicylic Acid | Can be used for skin peels, anti-dandruff products, and in products for oily, acneic and/or blemished skin Ideal for making products that need higher concentrations of salicylic acid |
Typical use level 0.5-3% | Typically, it is added to the water phase of formulas but it is only slightly soluble in water | Peels and exfoliant products. Anti-acne products (max. 2%). Anti-dandruff products (max 3%). Wart-removing products (max. concentration depends on type of plaster vehicle used). |
Store light-protected at a cool and dry place
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AHA Fruit Acid Extract | Excellent exfoliant shedding off the outermost layer of skin cells (corneocytes) Has good effectiveness against blemished skin |
Use level: 1-4% depending on skin tolerance. | Water Phase | Anti-aging & anti-wrinkle creams & lotions, peeling gels, exfoliants. |
Store light-protected at a cool and dry place
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Lactic acid | Very useful to rejuvenate the skin by encouraging the shedding of old surface skin cells Can reduce the appearance of fine lines, irregular pigmentation, age spots |
Typical use level is between 1-20%. | Water Phase
Avoid adding to an acidic product, ideal final pH of product should be 6 |
Peels, creams, lotions, masks, cleansers. Due to it’s acidity the final product needs to be tested for safe pH. Optimal pH range from 3.5-5.0. Some over the counter products, after adding lactic acid, will separate as a result of the low pH, and need to be stabilized. |
Store light-protected at a cool and dry place
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Glycolic Acid Powder | Can reduce the appearance of fine lines, irregular pigmentation, age spots & decreases enlarged pores Very useful in exfoliating products as alpha-hydroxy acid peel, or in creams & lotions at a lower |
Typical use level is between 1- 5 % | Water Phase | Peels, creams, lotions, masks, cleansers. |
Store light-protected at a cool and dry place
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Aloe Vera 200x extract powder | Potent moisturizer, invigorating and soothing agent Has been shown to improve the appearance of aging and dry skin Skin feels more resilient and supple |
Typical use level 1-10% | Water Phase | All skin care products for dry skin, soothing creams & lotions, sun care and after-sun products, shampoos and conditioners for dry hair. |
Store refrigerated (4-8oC / 39-46oF)
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HAIR CARE INGREDIENTS |
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INGREDIENTS NAME | FUNCTIONS / BENEFITS | USAGE RATE | FORMULATION STAGE | PRODUCTS | OTHER INFORMATION | ||
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein | Excellent tensor and film-forming properties that increases firmness of the skin Nourishes, softens the hair and makes the hair appear volumized |
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D Panthenol Gel | Penetrates readily into skin & hair Has good moisturizing and softening properties Soothes irritated and blemished skin |
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Keratin NFPF | Revitalizes the hairs natural protective layer and rebuilds tensile strength Returns elasticity and reduces breakage Reduces hair damage from harsh chemicals |
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Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk | Provides effective conditioning, softening, and smoothing properties to the hair Provides shine and anti-frizz to the hair and improves damaged hair |
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HUMECTANT |
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INGREDIENTS NAME | FUNCTIONS / BENEFITS | USAGE RATE | FORMULATION STAGE | PRODUCTS | OTHER INFORMATION | ||
Vegetable Glycerin | Effective humectant and moisturizer attracting water to the intercellular space of the skin Protects the lipids of skin cells |
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Sodium Lactate |
Has slight skin-lightening effects. Useful to adjust pH.
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LIPSTICK MAKING INGREDIENTS |
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INGREDIENTS | FUNCTIONS / BENEFITS | USAGE RATE | FORMULATION STAGE | PRODUCTS | OTHER INFORMATION | ||
Lipstick Base | Natural & botanically derived emollient & lubricant Can be used as substitute for petrolatum Enhances consistency and viscosity (e.g. ideal base for lip care products) |
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Lipstick Base | Can be used as is or customized further with your own additional ingredients Excellent emollient |
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SILICONES INGREDIENTS |
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INGREDIENTS | FUNCTIONS / BENEFITS | USAGE RATE | FORMULATION STAGE | PRODUCTS | OTHER INFORMATION | ||
Cyclomethicone | Rapidly evaporates without cooling the skin. Leaves the skin dry, smooth and silky Ideal carrier for makeup, other color cosmetic skin creams, deodorants and stick products without the oily feel |
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Dimethicone 350 dx | Used for its chemical stability in anti-foams, color cosmetics and hair care products Takes out the whitening of creams and lotions when rubbed into the skin and gives a non-greasy, dry feel |
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SOLVENTS INGREDIENTS |
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INGREDIENTS | FUNCTIONS / BENEFITS | USAGE RATE | FORMULATION STAGE | PRODUCTS | OTHER INFORMATION | ||
Propylene Glycol | Effective humectant and wetting agent preventing water loss in products and in the skin Increases skin permeability of active ingredients as it penetrates into the outermost skin layers |
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Iso Propyl Alcohol | |||||||
Sorbitol 70 | Effective moisturizing properties (avoids moisture loss) Stabilizes gels and provides good clarity Has skin softening and conditioning effects |
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THICKENER INGREDIENTS |
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INGREDIENTS | FUNCTIONS / BENEFITS | USAGE RATE | FORMULATION STAGE | PRODUCTS | OTHER INFORMATION | ||
Stearic Acid | Acts as good emulsion stabilizing agent Has effective thickening properties Provides a soft, pearly and cooling feel on the skin. Often used in lubricants. |
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Xanthan Gum | Non-gelling thickener (but binds water) and viscosity enhancer Provides volume and enhances foam in surfactants systems Stabilizes emulsions Has lubricant properties |
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Cetyl Alcohol | Non-gelling thickener and viscosity enhancer (also in water-free products like lipsticks) Has co-emulsifying properties if concentration is higher than 5 % |
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GUAR Gum | Effective non-gelling thickener and viscosity enhancer Can boost foam when together with surfactants Has additional conditioning effect due to the quaternary polymer structure as compared to regular guar gum |
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Carbopol® Aqua SF-1 polymer
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Tapioca Starch / Flour | Widely used as thickener and viscosity enhancer in various personal care products Excellent texturizer in face powders providing smooth and silky velvety feel |
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Isopropyl Miristate | Superior emollient for non-greasy bath, body and baby oils Lubricant and compression aid for pressed powders Light & non-tacky emollient for creams and lotions. |
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Carbomer 940 | Acts as powerful, ph-sensitive gelling thickener useful for making clear gels Stabilizes emulsions |
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INGREDIENTS | FUNCTIONS / BENEFITS | USAGE RATE | FORMULATION STAGE | PRODUCTS | OTHER INFORMATION | ||
Beeswax Beads | Self-emulsifying wax for making stable oil-in-water emulsions that can contain a high concentration of oils or lipophilic active ingredient Provides enhanced emolliency |
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Lanolin | Non-gelling thickener and emollient Ideal ingredient for lipsticks and other stick cosmetics Provides smooth and soft feel Increases viscosity in emulsions |
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Candellia Wax | Non-gelling thickener, viscosity enhancer and plasticizer Compatible with most natural and synthetic waxes and resins Extraordinary film-forming properties |
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Carnauba Wax | Non-gelling thickener, viscosity and consistency enhancer Provides good texture and stability due to high melting point Has emollient and moisturizing properties |
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Glyceryl Stearate | Potent emulsifier for making o/w emulsions Supports the consistency and the oil binding capacity and can also be used as co-emulsifier |
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Jojoba Esters Flakes | Gentle but effective exfoliation without the abrasiveness of other exfoliants Non-occlusive and non-commedogenic Very mild and suitable for sensitive skin |
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INGREDIENTS | FUNCTIONS / BENEFITS | USAGE RATE | FORMULATION STAGE | PRODUCTS | OTHER INFORMATION | ||
Soap crafters Kaolin Clay | Offers great spreadability with a very pleasant skin feel Supports the natural defense mechanism of the skin Has mild cleansing & exfoliating properties Absorbs excessive oils, and detoxifies effectively |
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Soap Crafters Bentonite Clay | Used as thickener, absorbent, filler, texturizer and binder in various skin and hair care products and color cosmetics Has thickening and suspending properties (e.g suspends pigments) and effectively thickens and stabilizes |
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Kaolin Clay A Grade | Offers great spreadability with a very pleasant skin feel Supports the natural defense mechanism of the skin Has mild cleansing & exfoliating properties Absorbs excessive oils, and detoxifies effectively |
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INGREDIENTS | FUNCTIONS / BENEFITS | USAGE RATE | FORMULATION STAGE | PRODUCTS | OTHER INFORMATION | ||
Lauryl Glucoside | Very mild surfactant blend offering excellent ph-independent foaming and cleansing properties Can replace sulfates Low pH stability – performs well in salicylic acid formulations |
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Decyl Glucoside | Very mild surfactant compatible with anionic, non-ionic, and amphoteric surfactants (except cationic surfactants) Can be used for amide-free and sulfate-free Provides great cleansing and foaming properties |
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Cocamidopropyl Betaine | Very mild co-surfactant compatible with anionic, non-ionic, cationic surfactants Useful also as primary surfactant as it has good cleansing and foam-boosting properties |
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Pure Castile Soap | Liquid soap with great emollient and moisturizing qualities Can be combined with surfactants to give them a moisturizing feel and greater foaming properties |
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Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI) Flakes |
Excellent foam density and foam stability Has very good lime soap dispersion and surface activity Leaves no soap scum as it is very hard water tolerant Compatible with soaps and anionic, non-ionic, and amphoteric surfactant |
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SLSA powder | |||||||
CocamidylPropyl Betaine | Very mild co-surfactant compatible with anionic, non-ionic, cationic surfactants Useful also as primary surfactant as it has good cleansing and foaming properties Slight viscosity enhancer |
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African Black Soap Flakes
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SLS Powder | Excellent foam and viscosity enhancer Good cleansing properties Can be used together with other surfactants Provides high foam, good lather, and excellent detergent properties |
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INGREDIENTS | FUNCTIONS / BENEFITS | USAGE RATE | FORMULATION STAGE | PRODUCTS | OTHER INFORMATION | ||
Vitamin E Oil | Potent antioxidant activity especially in cosmetic products but is less stable than dl-alpha-tocopheryl acetate Ideal to stabilize oils and fats in cosmetic products |
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Castor Oil | Excellent emollient leaving the skin soft and smooth Good hair conditioner making the hair looked nourished and shiny Widely used as moisturizer and lubricant in lip care products to add shine and luster |
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Palm Oil | |||||||
Coconut Oil | Precious emollient leaving the skin and hair soft, smooth and conditioned Lubricant for massage oils |
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Cocoa Butter | High-quality skin softener, emollient and conditioner Used as film forming agent, non-gelling thickener, and moisturizer in various applications Effective emulsion stabilizer |
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Shea Butter | Potent moisturizer and emollient providing effective skin protection against environmental stress factors Has anti-irritant and soothing properties and improves the appearance of aging skin |
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Sweet Almond Oil | Effective emollient leaves the skin soft, smooth and conditioned Good nourishing and revitalizing effect Penetrates and moisturizes the skin very well Ideal for irritated and blemished skin |
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Grapeseed Oil | Effective, non-greasy emollient with good skin absorption Leaves the skin soft, smooth and conditioned Has a mild toning effect Widely used in applications for blemished, oily and impure skin |
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Jojoba Oil | Precious moisturizer and emollient Prevents transdermal water loss and retains moisture Good lubricant without leaving a greasy film on the skin as it penetrates into the skin Regular application can reduce the appearance of fine lines |
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Olive Oil |
Pure olive oil characterized by a high level of oleic acid, is a popular oil derived from the fruit of the olive tree.
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Rosehip Oil |
Has toning, soothing and firming properties
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African Cocoa Butter | High-quality skin softener, emollient and conditioner Used as film forming agent, non-gelling thickener, and moisturizer in various applications |
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Mango Butter | Highly effective emollient and skin nutrient due to its unique softening properties and the high level of non-saponifiables Ideal for dry, damaged and aging skin |
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Avocado Oil | Nourishing oil for skin and hair care Particularly high content of vitamins A, B, D and E and essential fatty acids Moisturizes and softens skin and hair Well suited for dry skin, dry hair and damaged hair |
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Macadamia Nut Oil | Effective emollient and fragrance fixative Gives a rich skin feel and is especially suited for heavy creams and sun care products |
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Wheatgerm Oil | |||||||
Argan Oil | Valuable natural emollient with excellent nutritional benefits for skin and hair Has high content of unsaturated fatty acids, phenols and carotens |
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Mineral Oil | |||||||
Avocado Butter | High-quality emollient and moisturizer Natural antioxidant properties Has soothing and anti-irritant properties |
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Liquid Aloe Gel | Features excellent nutrients to revitalize all skin types Leaves skin renewed, hydrated and soft |
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Organic Neem Oil |
Has good moisturizing, humectant and soothing properties.
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Apricot Kernel Oil | Excellent carrier oil for all kinds of skin care products and color cosmetics Has good moisturizing and water-retaining properties |
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Moringa Oil | |||||||
Arnica Oil | Helps stimulating the skin for a fresh and rejuvenated complexion Widely used to soothe irritated skin and moisturize dry skin |
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Hydrogenated Castor Oil | Excellent emollient leaving the skin soft and smooth Good hair conditioner making the hair looked nourished and shiny Widely used as moisturizer and lubricant in lip care products to add shine and luster |
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Lanolin Oil | |||||||
Macadamia Butter | Effective emollient with great moisturizing and smoothing properties. Improve skin elasticity. No tacky or greasy feel on the skin. Very useful in hair formulas due to its naturally glossy appearance and emollient repair effect. |
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Safflower Oil | |||||||
Black Castor Oil | Excellent emollient leaving the skin soft and smooth Good hair conditioner making the hair looked nourished and shiny Widely used as moisturizer and lubricant in lip care products to add shine and luster |
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Baobab Oil | Rich, premium emollient for skin and hair care use due to its content of vitamins and omega fatty acids Helps soothing dry and itchy skin |
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Sesame Oil | Excellent emollient, good nourishing and moisturizing properties Great carrier oil for various formulations Ideal for blemished and impure skin One of the most versatile oils for cosmetics due to its lightness, and odorless and nourishing properties |
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Hempseed Oil | Effective emollient and nourishing ingredient Gives a rich skin feel Is beneficial for irritated and dry skin |