Basic Non-Comedogenic Face Cream

Basic Non-Comedogenic Face Cream

A lightweight, fast-absorbing facial cream suitable for normal, combination, oily, and blemish-prone skin.

Phase A – Water Phase

• Distilled Water – 69.1g
• Vegetable Glycerine – 3.0g
• Xanthan Gum – 0.2g

Phase B – Oil Phase

• Olivem 1000 – 5.0g
• Squalane – 5.0g
• Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides – 7.0g
• Cetyl Alcohol – 2.0g

Phase C – Cool Down Phase

• Niacinamide – 5.0g
• DL-Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) – 2.0g
• Allantoin – 0.2g
• Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) – 0.5g
• Euxyl PE 9010 – 1.0g

Total: 100g

Method

1. Thoroughly disperse the xanthan gum into the glycerine to form a smooth slurry.
2. Add the slurry to the distilled water while stirring continuously until the gum is fully hydrated.
3. Combine all Phase B ingredients in a separate heatproof beaker.
4. Heat both Phase A and Phase B to 70–75°C.
5. Once both phases are at the same temperature, slowly pour Phase B into Phase A while mixing with a stick blender or high-shear mixer.
6. Blend for 2–3 minutes, then continue stirring gently while the emulsion cools.
7. When the cream has cooled to below 40°C, add the Phase C ingredients one at a time, mixing thoroughly after each addition.
8. Check and adjust the final pH to 5.2–5.8 if necessary.
9. Fill into clean, sanitised airless pump bottles or cosmetic jars.

Benefits

• Lightweight, silky, non-greasy texture.
• Non-comedogenic ingredients that are unlikely to clog pores.
• Provides long-lasting hydration without feeling heavy.
• Niacinamide (5%) helps improve skin barrier function, reduce excess oil, minimise the appearance of pores, and promote a more even skin tone.
• Squalane helps maintain skin moisture while feeling exceptionally light.
• Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides provide excellent slip and fast absorption.
• Panthenol and Allantoin help soothe and condition the skin.

Notes

• This formulation contains approximately 14% oil phase, making it ideal for a lightweight daily facial moisturiser.
• The recommended final pH is 5.2–5.8, with 5.5 being an excellent target.
• Airless pump bottles are recommended to maximise product hygiene and shelf life.
• Suitable for customisation with additional water-soluble actives or botanical extracts, provided compatibility and preservative efficacy are maintained.